So, where does Shanghai stand as an international dining city? In a year marking the tenth anniversaries of three cherished institutions, M on the Bund, Simply Thai and Sherpa’s, this classic dining table debate is again dividing food lovers.

In truth, Shanghai’s culinary scene is undergoing a renewed period of redefinition. After five years or so of flirting overtly with fine dining, the city is taking stock. A more diversified, less style-obsessed dining scene may be the result.

Think back, for example, to 2004, when Three on the Bund unveiled a dining triple play of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, David Laris and Jereme Leung to raise Shanghai’s dining bar. One year later, New York-based restaurant guide Zagat arrived, and acclaimed restaurant designer-cum-showman Adam Tihany announced: “the world’s top chefs are all eager to open in Shanghai.”

We are still waiting. Robuchon, Nobu and Ducasse may have conquered Hong Kong, and Daniel Boulud might be thriving in Beijing, but in Shanghai the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers came, franchised and left, and sightings of Jean-Georges are increasing rare. Shanghai doesn’t even have any Michelin credentials. Early last year, a rumor spread that inspectors from the revered Michelin Guide were in town. Not true. After awarding 227 prized stars to Tokyo, Michelin instead headed south, awarding 31 stars in Hong Kong and 9 in Macau.

Paradoxically, while style-centric Shanghai dining has galvanized the world’s glossy travel media of late, the absence of uber-ego superchefs has helped the local restaurant scene mature and diversify. Free from the pressure of competing for spangly dining stars, local restaurateurs have devised and developed inventive homegrown dining brands. Now, a handful of these epicurean adventurers are expanding their empires across the city, nation – and beyond.

Going For Growth
From inauspicious beginnings in a Shanghai gymnasium, Element Fresh has revolutionized lunchtime dining. “When we opened at the Shanghai Centre in 2002, there wasn’t much variety for lunch beyond an expensive hotel club sandwich or fast food.” says Element Fresh founder Scott Minoie.

The lunch concept evolved into breakfasts, brunches and dinner entrees, and Element Fresh now counts six restaurants in Shanghai and one in Beijing. Growth is on the menu. “We think Shanghai could take eight or nine outlets, and Beijing also,” says Minoie whose next targets are Gubei, Qianmen in Beijing and Times Square in Suzhou.

Along the way, Minoie pushed the brand through a four-year association with the ATP Tennis Masters Cup in Shanghai. “We went all out to reach people who had never visited Element Fresh before,” Minoie says. “It worked really well, and we are continuing with the new format ATP Masters Series tournament in Shanghai from 2009.”

Doorstep Delivery
Bored by his MBA program, Mark Secchia turned a CEIBS internship project into a business proposal with dreams of “a decent return in three years.” Ten years later, Sherpa’s has food delivery operations in Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou, and is eyeing further expansion.

Two-thirds of Sherpa’s phone orders are in English, and it employs an in-house teacher to train local staff. Among its technology developments is a plan to run staff PC monitors from a single server, rather than individual units – “Think of the power supply savings,” says Secchia – and an ongoing project to fine-tune online ordering.

And the name? “My wife and I were on vacation and running to the airport with large suitcases,” Secchia says. “She stopped for a break and asked me to carry hers. I said ‘What, am I your Sherpa?’ It stuck as a nickname, so I used it for the company.”

Spicing Up The Market
“Local market focus” is an increasingly prevalent phrase in the hospitality trade. As the global financial crisis bites, restaurants and hotels are focusing intently on the desires of Chinese customers.

Even before the global crash, one established restaurateur had moved into Chinese dining. Simply The Group has four Thai restaurants, plus the Simply Life stores and Party People catering venture in its Shanghai portfolio. Last year, it bought a majority stake in Pin Chuan, an under-performing Sichuan restaurant – gave the interior a new flourish, reshaped the menu and tested the market.

“Thai cuisine has its limitations at the moment in Shanghai – there are about 20 restaurants, and we have four,” says Choon, Founder of the Simply The Group. “We realized the need for a Chinese cuisine with mass market appeal.” It was a considered decision. “One of our three partners is actually from Sichuan province, and there is a close correlation with Thai cuisine terms of the spiciness of the flavors,” Choon says. “The results have been very positive. This is a concept we could develop elsewhere in Shanghai.”

Filling the Gaps
Local diners have long yearned for good Mexican and Greek food – among them was Miguel Jonsson, Partner of Velvet Lounge. Last summer, Jonsson and his team partnered with chef Brad Turley to create Maya, one of Shanghai’s 2008 success stories. A contemporary Mexican restaurant, Maya is both true to its roots and distinctively different. “We knew the market wanted good Mexican food, but we didn’t want a place with Mariachi bands and sombreros,” Jonsson says.

Instead, the interior “whispers, rather than screams, Mexico,” with Diego Rivera artworks, Mayan motifs and a latino pop soundtrack. The menu tiptoes back and forth across the Rio Grande, with a solid Mexican soul enhanced by flashes of Texifornian flair. 

Next, Jonsson is teaming up with David Laris to open The Fat Olive, which promises casual Greek mezze food and mid-range wines. “David’s background is Greek, so he knows the cuisine. Really, we just want to produce good food in a casual atmosphere,” Jonsson says.

Satiating Sweet Dreams
“It was always my dream to open a pastry shop,” says Brian Tan. The Malaysian baker-turned-entrepreneur realized that dream in April 2005 when he opened the House of Flour beside Zhangjiang Gao Ke metro station. In 2007, he expanded to Puxi with the C by House of Flour café. But Tan knew that retail revenue alone was unsustainable. “We needed to develop a brand,” he says.

Tan’s passion to diversify saw House of Flour move into supplying chocolates, pastries and breads to five-star hotels and restaurants, and catering for corporate events. He’s even been approached about opening outlets in Singapore and Vietnam.

“We have worked hard to structure the company and establish central kitchens,” Tan says. “Now we can focus on developing the brand.” Next on the menu is an under-wraps new Puxi concept, set to open in late April. It is based on Tan’s proven penchant for rigorous research. In the past year, he has traveled from Shanghai, Singapore and San Francisco to Paris, Prague and Tokyo to research and hone the House of Flour’s next creative concept.

Without a single Michelin star or a resident superchef in sight, Shanghai has proved that an international dining city can grow organically in a place where there is both a passion for food and savvy entrepreneurs dedicated to raising the creativity bar.
From refined Sichuan cuisine to sophisticated dessert delights, and from redefined lunchtime habits to tasty new concepts and super-speed home delivery, Shanghai’s hottest talents continue to cook up a storm.