Located 60 miles southeast of Beijing, Tianjin enjoyed its summer in the spotlight as a co-host city for the 2008 Olympics. But its ambitions don’t end there. Having spruced up its magnificent heritage architecture, and re-landscaped the river boardwalks and parks, it is now working to achieve a post-Olympic tourism boost.
Tianjin is one of China’s four city municipalities (along with Beijing, Shanghai and Chongqing). It also revels in the nickname of the ‘Shanghai of the North' – because of its historic shipping, trade and financial services industries, and its Concession-era architecture and urban design that heralds from the late 19th century.
But Tianjin, which sits 35 km inland from Bohai Bay and is spliced by the River Hai, is an attractive and prosperous city in its own right. Now linked to Beijing by China’s fastest inter-city train, which travels at up to 330 kph and arrives in just 27 minutes, Tianjin is set to become a popular weekend-break destination for capital dwellers. Here are our Scribes of the Orient tips for making the most of a day-trip to Tianjin.
Heritage Architecture
Tianjin’s most grandiose 19th and early 20-century architecture sits on both sides of Jiefang Bei Lu, once the main artery of the British Concession that connected with Rue de France in the French Concession. The Doric columns, granite facades and neo-classical pomp of the former banking HQs are eerily similar to Shanghai’s Bund.
French Concession
Just as in the Shanghai of the East, Tianjin’s French Concession functions as the soul of the city for its northern cousin. The genteel plane tree shaded streets branching off Hebei Lu feature restless cicadas in the foliage, longtang-style residential districts, old European villas and a general sense that you are strolling south of Shanghai’s very own Huaihai Lu.
Antiques Market
Clustered around the leafy French Concession streets around Shenyang Lu, this is a serious contender for the title of China’s most laid-back market. Stallholders negotiate prices from their deckchairs as you peruse eclectic collections of old Chinese musical instruments, clocks, radios, paintings, ink calligraphy brushes and Mao-era memorabilia.
Goubuli Dumplings
Valiantly standing while all around it is torn down and redeveloped, this restaurant looks like a traditional Chinese palace and has been serving Tianjin’s famed steamed buns and millet cakes since time immemorial (1848, to be precise). Join the queue for a table and take a photo of the exterior like everyone else, because this place is seriously popular.
77 Shandong Lu, 86-22/2730-2540, www.tjgoubuli.com
Kiessling
A genuine Tianjin institution, which even has its own road sign on Nanjing Road. Located close to the old Synagogue, from which it once gained much of its clientele, this timeless gem was established by a former chef to the German Kaiser and is now into its second century of service. The old-school décor and classic European dishes create a time-warp ambience, while the pastries are the finest in the city.
27 Zhejiang Lu, 86-22/2332-2247, www.kiessling.net.cn
Renaissance Tianjin
A swarm of international five-star hotels is buzzing expectantly around Tianjin, but until they arrive this is the pick of the current crop. Located in a skyreaching obelisk-shaped glass tower in the fast-evolving new commercial district south of Nanjing Road, its contemporary rooms are dressed in pastel tones and offer broadband Internet and cable TV. A Club Deluxe upgrade yields access to free evening cocktails in the Club Lounge.
105 Jianshe Lu, 86-22/2302-6888
Getting There
From Shanghai, regular daily flights leave from Hongqiao Airport. From Beijing, frequent bullet trains depart from Beijing South Railway Station.
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